Monday, July 06, 2026

Kensal Green Cemetery (General Cemetery of All Souls)

Kensal Green Cemetery (General Cemetery of All Souls)

The General Cemetery of All Souls was the first of the eight private garden cemeteries to open, between 1833 and 1845.

Amidst the sprawl of North Kensington lies a 72-acre sanctuary where the grand, the eccentric, and the entirely bizarre rest side by side. Opened in 1833, Kensal Green Cemetery holds the crown as the oldest of London’s 'Magnificent Eight' Victorian burial grounds.

Before its creation, London was facing a macabre crisis: its inner-city parish churchyards were dangerously overflowing, prompting a desperate need for sanitary, suburban alternatives. Inspired by the elegant Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris, barrister George Frederick Carden envisioned a secure, picturesque 'garden cemetery' that would double as a public park.

Kensal Green Cemetery

The concept was a roaring success. When Prince Augustus Frederick (a son of King George III) chose to be buried here in 1843, rather than at Windsor, Kensal Green instantly became the most fashionable place in the British Empire to be laid to rest. Wealthy Victorians flocked to outdo one another with towering Gothic monuments, neoclassical columns, and theatrical mausoleums. 

Today, it remains a wildly atmospheric labyrinth of history.

Saturday, July 04, 2026

Walking with family: Canada to Russia... and beyond

Nao Victoria at St Katharine Docks and Marina

Friday July 3, 2026.
Sunny with a high of 27°C (80.6°F).

As I had the day off work, I had arranged to visit London with my uncle Martin in an attempt to "walk around the world".

I made the short walk to my uncle's house, from where he drove us to Croxley station to catch our Metropolitan line train. Unfortunately, there was a points failure near Wembley Park, so our train would terminate at Harrow-on-the-Hill, from where we would have to board a different train to complete our journey.

We only had to wait for two minutes at Harrow-on-the-Hill station for the next southbound train, which whisked us onwards to Finchley Road, where we boarded a Jubilee line train to complete our journey.

On leaving our destination station, we purchased coffee from the 'Nonna Anna' kiosk, just outside Canada Water station, before beginning our epic trek around the world.

Canada

Canada Water from the Rafter Walk boardwalk

We entered Deal Porter Square and headed to Canada Water, where we traversed this body of water via the newly installed Rafter Walk boardwalk, which winds along its western edge. In its heyday, Canada Water, then known as Canada Dock, was almost three times the size of what it is now, with much of it being filled in during the regeneration of the area.

Greenland Dock Bascule Bridge

We then joined Surrey Quays Road, with Canada Pond and Quebec Pond, now filled in, to our left, before we joined Redriff Road, crossing the border from Canada to Greenland via the Greenland Dock Bascule Bridge.

Thursday, July 02, 2026

Metropolitan Police

Scotland Yard 10 Broadway, Victoria

Rise of the Redbreasts and Bobbies: The Men Who Built London’s Police

Long before Sir Robert Peel’s "Bobbies" took to the streets in 1829, London was an incredibly dangerous place. Policing was left to corrupt "thief-takers", bounty hunters working strictly for reward money, and elderly parish watchmen who were easily outrun by criminals. If you were robbed in eighteenth-century London, you were largely on your own, until the Bow Street Runners changed everything.

Formed in 1749, the Runners were London’s very first professional, state-funded law enforcement body. By operating as a cohesive unit, they fundamentally shifted how society viewed the responsibility of public safety.

The Blind Magistrate and the Novelist

Surprisingly, the force wasn't created by a politician, but by a famous author: Henry Fielding, who wrote the classic novel 'Tom Jones'. After being appointed as the Chief Magistrate at Bow Street Magistrates’ Court near Covent Garden, Fielding was horrified by the lawlessness of the city. He recruited six trustworthy, energetic constables, providing them with proper training and a small government stipend.

When Henry passed away in 1754, his blind half-brother, Sir John Fielding, took over as Magistrate. Known affectionately as the "Blind Beak," John famously developed an uncanny ability to identify over 3,000 thieves simply by the sound of their voices. Under his visionary leadership, the Bow Street Runners grew into an official, highly organised force.

Monday, June 29, 2026

Stainer Street, London Bridge

A Victorian pipe organ at London Bridge station

Stainer Street was once a traffic tunnel, that was dimly lit and where few pedestrians would dare to linger.

It was closed during the refurbishment and enlargement of London Bridge station and reopened as a pedestrianised thoroughfare, still linking St Thomas Street with Tooley Street, but also allowing for passengers to traverse from the mainline station to the London Underground.

Stainer Street lights

Three glass cups, etched with abstract patterns and containing messages, now hang above the pathway, and are entitled 'Me. Here. Now.' by Mark Titchner. The messages read:

"One foot in front of the other"
"The distance means nothing"
"Only the first step is difficult"

But, you could reverse this, depending on which way through the tunnel you are walking.

Thursday, June 25, 2026

Brompton Cemetery (West of London and Westminster Cemetery)

Brompton Cemetery (West of London and Westminster Cemetery)

The West of London and Westminster Cemetery was the fifth of the eight private garden cemeteries to open.

Opened in 1840, in the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, it was originally designed by Stephen Geary, but he was replaced by Benjamin Baud who designed a more formal layout, including the central avenue and domed chapel.

Brompton Cemetery is the only Crown Cemetery and as such is managed by The Royal Parks. It is still in operation.

Brompton Cemetery

Amidst the bustling, affluent sprawl of West London lies an island of absolute stillness.
Established in 1840, Brompton Cemetery is one of the capital’s famed 'Magnificent
Eight' Victorian burial grounds, constructed to rescue a rapidly growing 19th-century
London from the hazardous, overflowing state of its parish churchyards.