'Chiswick': A Harland & Wolff 'Large Woolwich' type Cargo Ship

Monday April 21, 2025.

As much as I love walking through London, I also enjoy walking along the Grand Union Canal.

So it was that I came across this piece of London maritime history, while walking towards Hillingdon, along the Grand Union Canal. 

What caught my eye was the legend 'Harland & Wolff'. As I approached the vessel I could see a man standing beside it. After a quick introduction, his name is Mark, he told me a little about the narrowboat and allowed me to take some photographs of the signage and Harland & Wolff plaque.

He explained that it was one of the last working cargo ships on the Grand Union Canal and that part of the area, beneath the canvas, had now been converted, so that he could live on it. I then bid him farewell and continued on my way.

It is a beautiful craft and looks pretty good at 88 years and 1 day old.

History

London has always had a long history of shipbuilding, with the Port of London being one of the most important strategic maritime locations for over 2,000 years.

Over the centuries many companies moved, or opened, new facilities along the banks of the River Thames.

King Henry VIII created the first permanent dockyards at Woolwich. Then, over the centuries, more shipbuilders began to move to the River Thames, owing to the safety of the river and the Port of London. These companies included Ditchburg & Mare, Russell's, Samuda Brothers, Thames Ironworks, Watson & Company, Wigram's and Yarrow to name just a few.

One of the most famous names to appear, along the River Thames, was Harland & Wolff, of RMS Titanic fame, whose North Woolwich yard was the largest in London. They also had another six Harland & Wolff repair yards spread along the river at London, Millwall, Surrey and West India Docks.

Their North Woolwich yard had workshops for boiler making, French polishing, sail making, upholstery and a large forge.

The yard was also used for repairs to vessels, including warships. 

St Mary-at-Lambeth Church and Tower

Standing beside Lambeth Palace is all that remains of St Mary-at-Lambeth church. Or, more correctly, its tower.

There has been a church on this site since before 1086, while Lambeth Palace opened in 1435.

In 1851 the church was demolished, with the exception of the tower, and rebuilt, so that more seats could be added. This Middle Ages inspired building remained in use until 1972. 

At the base of the tower, is an immersion font. Archbishop of Canterbury Edward Benson (1883-1896) appointed his close friend John Reeve as the Rector of St Mary's, in 1894. Reeve commissioned this font in Benson's memory. It is one of only two known examples of an immersion font to be found in an Anglican church.

The tower is still accessible to visitors who, for a small fee, can climb the 131 steps to the roof of the tower.

'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)' by Jason Klimoski and Lesley Chang

Canary Wharf is home to over 100 pieces of public art, spread across the site from Westferry, in the west, to Wood Wharf in the east. 

Some of these works were purchased, while others were commissioned or are on loan to the Canary Wharf Group.

The latest piece to join this collection is 'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)'. It was designed by Jason Klominski and Lesley Chang, from the architecture and design firm StudioKCA, with the aid of the Hawaii Wildlife Fund.

Standing at 11m (36ft), or four storeys tall, and weighing 5 tonnes, this permanent artwork shows the whale breaking the surface of the water, arching its back as if it is going to crash down on the footpath beside Wood Wharf.

The piece is made from plastic, washed up on Hawaiian beaches, in an effort to highlight the problem of plastic in our seas and oceans. The sculpture is not just made from recycled plastic, but sustainable elements, too. Its base is unique, being a first-of-its-kind low-carbon concrete underwater base, made from coffee grounds from local bars and cafes.

The Canary Wharf Group has, since 2009, sent zero waste to landfill from its managed areas. This sculpture has been placed to show their commitment to reducing waste. Even the installation process, of the sculpture, was carefully considered to minimise its carbon footprint.

To see more photographs of some of the public art on display, across Canary Wharf,

click on the link below.

Gallery

Canary Wharf Art Map: Download

Walking with Keilyn: West India Docks to East India Docks... and beyond

Sunday April 13, 2025.

Another Sunday and another Walk with Keilyn.

We began our day with a walk to Watford Metropolitan station, with food, snacks and drinks all packed in my rucksack. We boarded the train and headed off towards London. We switched to a Jubilee line train, at Finchley Road, and continued our journey to Canary Wharf.

On exiting Canary Wharf station we began our walk by heading through Jubilee Park, checking out some of the Canary Wharf Public Art, and Easter Eggs, on our way to Wood Wharf.

Approaching Wood Wharf we could easily spot 'Whale on the Wharf (Skyscraper)', the latest piece to join the Canary Wharf Public Art trail. Standing at four-storeys, and made of 5 tonnes of recycled plastic, the whale towered over the crowds that come to see it. 

From here we continued eastward, along Branran Street and onto Lovegrove Walk, before we joined Preston's Road. From here we walked along Coldharbour, passing 'The Gun' public house and then Nelson House, before rejoining Preston's Road.

We then walked around, the now sealed, Blackwall Basin Entrance Lock, before rejoining the Thames Path North East Extension.

A compass, in the ground, was bisected by the Prime Meridian Line, so Keilyn could stand on both east and west of the line. 

We then continued along the path until we reached Virginia Quay and the Virginia Quay Settlers Monument.

With time getting on we stopped to eat our lunch, at East India Quay, enjoying the peace and tranquillity of the River Thames and the view across to the MillenniuM Dome.

Camley Street Natural Park, St Pancras

Having walked the length of the Regent's Canal and having visited Gasholders Park and Coal Drops Yard, on numerous occasions, I had seen Camley Street Natural Park from the canal towpath, but had never explored it. This had to be rectified.

So, it was while out walking with Keilyn that we decided to go for an exploratory of the park, to see what was there. Crossing the Regent's Canal, via the Somers Town Bridge, we headed through the giant iron gates and into the covered seating area of the park.

Walking around the cafe and learning centre we made our way to the entrance of the reserve and began our exploration.

The path was compacted and strong and bordered by low, wooden borders that separated the footpath from the wild meadows and ponds. Information boards, spread sporadically around the site, showed the fauna and flora that could be spotted throughout the year. Unfortunately, our visit took place at the beginning of March, so much of the wildlife was absent, giving the place a truly tranquil feel.

The path soon joined wooden walkways, which allowed water to flow beneath them from the interconnecting ponds and the Regent's Canal.

Seating area, either on the banks of the Regent's Canal or in small clearings gave ample space to sit and take in the peace.

We explored the ponds, seeing only coots, mallards and moorhens, while blackbirds, great tits, long-tailed tits, magpies, pigeons and robins flew between the trees.

The sound of skittering, through fallen leaves, could have been wood mice or other small rodents, but there was nothing that we could see.

Logs, piled up in various locations, and bug hotels seemed quiet, with their inhabitants buried in the soil or deep inside the rotting wood.

The ponds, with their crystal clear waters, seemed devoid of life, too.

Various ferns, planted in a stumpery, were still growing, while many other plants were yet to bloom.

Once we had seen everything that we could we made our way out of the park, promising to come back later in the year to see what wildlife may have taken up residence.