'Cain Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery' by Michael Visocchi

Just off Fenchurch Street you will find Fen Court, which was once the churchyard of St Gabriel's Fenchurch Street. This area is now in the Parish of St Edmund the King and St Mary Woolnoth. A few tombs remain among the grass and paved area, with a small bedded maze. But, the most striking feature, of this thoroughfare, is the granite pillars and what looks like a pulpit. This is the 'Gilt of Cain', or, the 'Cain Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery'.

The artwork comprises a group of columns, shaped like sugar cane, surrounding a podium, much like that used in a church or an auctioneer. Around each column are extracts from the poem 'Gilt of Cain', by Lemn Sissay. The podium contains a longer extract from the poem.

The memorial was designed by Michael Visocchi, in collaboration with poet Lemn Sissay, and was unveiled, in 2008, by Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Mpilo Tutu.

Michael Visocchi designed the granite sculpture to appear as though the columns were silent sentinels of a congregation, facing the podium. His idea was to shape the columns like sugar cane and for the podium to appear more like an auctioneer's stance, while also keeping in mind the ecclesiastical nature of the area. 

Lemn Sissay's poem, 'Gilt of Cain', weaves Old Testament biblical references with the coded jargon from the trading floor of the City's stock exchange.

This site was chosen as the Reverend John Newton, who was a slave trader turned abolitionist, was rector of St Mary Woolnoth from 1780-1807. He famously worked closely with William Wilberforce to help bring about the abolition of the transatlantic slave trade. This was achieved in 1807 and brought about the process of the emancipation of slaves, throughout the British Empire.

London's Drinking Fountains

In a bustling metropolis like London, it's easy to overlook the small, yet significant, historical markers scattered throughout the city. Among these are the numerous drinking fountains and animal water troughs, silent sentinels that tell a story of Victorian philanthropy, public health, and a bygone era before bottled water became ubiquitous.

Imagine London in the mid-19th century. The River Thames, while a vital artery for trade, was also a significant source of drinking water for many, often contaminated and leading to devastating outbreaks of cholera and other diseases. Access to clean, safe drinking water was a luxury, not a right, and for the working classes, it was a daily struggle. This pressing public health crisis spurred a wave of social reform, and a key initiative was the provision of free, clean drinking water for all. 

The Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association, founded in 1859, became the driving force behind this movement. Their mission was simple: "to promote the erection of drinking fountains in the streets of London, and also of cattle troughs for the use of animals."

These fountains and troughs were more than just practical necessities; they were symbols of Victorian compassion and a commitment to public welfare. Funded by generous donations from individuals, charitable organizations, and even royalty, they sprung up in parks, market squares, and busy thoroughfares across the city.

Walking with Keilyn: Aldgate to the City of Westminster... and beyond

Friday October 10, 2025.

Keilyn and I had worked out that we hadn't visited London, together, in quite a few weeks, which was a shock.

So, as soon as I had finished work and Keilyn had arrived home from school, we both got changed, grabbed some snacks and took a taxi to Watford Metropolitan underground station. An Aldgate-bound train was waiting at platform 2, which we hurriedly boarded, grabbing seats near the centre of the train. Within minutes we were on our way.

Pulling into Harrow-on-the-Hill station we were informed, by our driver, that the train pulling in beside us would be leaving first. So, a mass exodus of travellers, including us, crossed the platform and boarded the other train. A ridiculous thing to do, really, as this would only shave a few minutes from our journey time. Sure enough, though, we were soon moving again.

We exited Aldgate station and headed west, turning down Fenchurch Street until we reached Fen Court, where we stopped to look at the 'Gilt of Cain', which is a sculpture that commemorates the abolition of the slave trade. 

It is a remarkable piece. Composed of a granite podium, with steps, and columns that are shaped like sugar cane acting as a congregation. Each column is etched with lines from the poem 'Gilt of Cain', by Lemn Sissay.

We then made our way towards Fenchurch Street station, where we purchased some hot food, which we ate on the benches on Fenchurch Place. 

Suitably filled with energy we made our way back to Fenchurch Street and turned down St Katherine's Row and through French Ordinary Court. This eventually brought us out onto Crutched Friars and, then, Savage Gardens which brought us to Trinity Square. I do love the City of London's street names.

Crossing Tower Hill we stopped to take some photos of His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, spotting some of the poppy installation flowing down the wall of the Medieval castle.

From here we headed down to the River Thames and onto Three Quays Walk. The light was fading as we reached the river, making Tower Bridge really stand out, with its lights illuminating its profile. Sugar Quay Jetty offered the perfect place to grab some photos of the bridge, HMS Belfast and The Shard.

Approaching Grant's Quay Wharf we noticed that the top of The Shard had lights running up its uppermost levels, signalling the time was now 19:00.

London Bridge, like the rest of the bridges we would see, was illuminated with coloured lights, reflecting off the turbulent waters of the outgoing tide.

Coal Duty Posts

The next time you're driving, cycling, or walking in the outskirts of Greater London, keep an eye out for a humble, often white, cast-iron post. It might look like just another boundary marker, but these fascinating objects, known variously as Coal Posts or Coal Tax Posts, are silent sentinels of a centuries-old story of taxation, reconstruction, and London's booming growth.

The story of the Coal Posts begins long before they were erected. Since medieval times, the Corporation of the City of London had the authority to levy duties on goods, including coal, brought into the city. But it was a catastrophic event that truly put the coal duty into high gear: the Great Fire of 1666.

To fund the massive rebuilding effort, including iconic structures like St Paul's Cathedral, Acts of Parliament were passed, imposing additional duties on coal entering the Port of London. The revenue stream was vital, and over time, it was used for more than just immediate reconstruction. Funds from the coal and wine duties financed significant public works, such as the building of the Thames Embankment, Holborn Viaduct, and even the purchase of toll bridges to make them free for the public.

For centuries, collecting the tax was relatively straightforward. Coal came into London primarily by sea, docking at riverside wharves, where the tonnage could be easily measured and the duty collected.

However, the 19th century brought rapid change: the explosion of canals and railways. Suddenly, coal was entering London from all directions, bypassing the traditional wharves. The City of London needed a clear way to mark the inland boundary where the duty became payable.

London Stadium, Stratford

Walking around Stratford, today, it is hard to imagine that, up until twenty years ago, this was an area of London that was in dire need of regeneration.

Much of the area was derelict industrial wasteland, part of which was radioactive due to Queen Mary College's Department of Nuclear Engineering, having a small nuclear reactor onsite. Something needed to be done.

In 2001, following China's successful bid to host the 2008 Olympic Games, London put in a bid for the 2012 Olympic Games. Two plans were short-listed: 

1. West London - Based around Wembley and the construction of a new National Stadium to replace Wembley Stadium.
2. East London - Involving the regeneration of an area stretching from the Isle of Dogs, through Stratford, and on into the Lower Lea Valley.

The second plan won unanimously and so became the pitch for the London bid.

In May 2005, London won the bid to host the 2012 Olympics.

Construction

In May 2008, after the 'bowl' of the stadium had been excavated and the area cleared, construction of the stadium began. It was due to be completed in May 2011, but was completed in March of 2011, coming in under budget and ahead of schedule.

The foundation consists of 5,000 piles, driven to a depth of 20 m (66 ft)

In October 2011, the athletics track was laid. The track-and-field area is surrounded by 25,000 permanent seats, built using concrete.

Spectators and visitors enter the stadium at the podium level, which is inline with the top of the permanent seating. This upper tier was built from lightweight steel and concrete and accommodated another 55,000 spectators. The upper tier is 60 m (197 ft) in height.